A swarm of flying ants covered the deck last evening after the sunset. The geckos had been out for a while, unusually, maybe waiting for food to fly straight on their tongues. The ants didn't bite, but crawled everywhere, and loved the bulb's white light. We had dinner without it, thus, using the candles, both real and the LED variety from
Philips (same ones we have at home). At some point during the meal, our host came over to check a new theory. He replaced the white light lamp with a pleasant, yellow one that he fashioned himself out of
LEDs installed inside a bamboo sheath. He had a similar one above their table, in the back of the kitchen, and noticed it didn't spot as many ants as the kitchen lamp. To our general surprise, and relief, the insects didn't crowd about it at our table either. Quite on the contrary. We all wondered aloud what did the trick, and loved it nevertheless. As the experience is great and the consumption is much lower, our host will probably turn a lot of the existent bulb lamps into LED lights next year.
We then joined him and wife for a glass of rum at their table, to wish him bon voyage. Rain started before he could take the boat out of the bay, though, so we had another glass of rum, and waited, conversing. It wasn't until 3-4 in the morning, I'm told, that he could finally leave for
Puerto Princesa, where the bad cabin put in a while back will be entirely rebuilt. By those wee hours, however, we were fast asleep, having enjoyed the elegant dance of the singular, green, shiny firefly in our own bedroom. Even that creature decided to stay away from the storm. Or was it our sparkling company?
We got up before eight.
Chris has had a rough night, after a couple of dizzy days, so he wanted a pill for his headache, a walk in the breeze, and a loose chat. Soon after he fell asleep on the sun bed outside the house. Rain was dripping from the yucca-like trees. The sea was green, and quiet like a lake, though with the full moon last night the tide was so high that there was nearly no beach left. Rioting swallows kept flying through the decked area, in pairs. Tiny yellow and brown birds of alto voices, the size of my thumb perhaps (hard not to confuse them with certain insects) quarreled in the trees nearby. As I sipped my coffee, a bird the size of a large parrot flew across the shore, really low, its beak bright orange, its feathers striking turquoise and green. A large king fisher. An even larger bird caught my eye next, a black and white flutter across the garden. The hornbill. Today must be the day of the birds.
Chris is dosing on and off. He stopped taking Malarone today, worried it might be connected with what he feels/ has, and we hope for the best. I wandered around a bit, noting all the coconuts cracked in half on the rocky beach in the back of the island, left to dry in the morning sun, I presume. A surreal landscape. On my way back I picked a frangipani flower from the grass, put it in my hair, and here I am, chilling.
Time passed and, before lunch, the garden filled with laughter. Our host's friends, mainly women, stopped over for the afternoon, bringing chilled wine and snacks and giggling unstoppably. It seemed they were
island hopping. When Chris was comfortable enough with his chills and dosing, having had paracetamol and chicken soup with green
papaya, I joined the party, following repeated invitations. Before going I placed a covered plate by his sofa, though. The rice cake that ended the lunch was absolutely glorious, and always a good idea (rice itself) when one has a troubled stomach.
In the garden, everything was discussed: the beach, bathing,
Palawan, children, environment, curls vs. straight hair, living in
Milan, living in
London, thighs and cleavages, teenage years going out, marrying an Englishman, local cashews, armed resort security forces, the simple and beautiful house and even my post about delaying the period, which our host had read before our arrival. Jokes were cracked every minute, literally cascading.
After they left, we took another walk on the beach and I found a deep green fragment of shell. Chris thought it might be some man made material the sea had been chewing for a while. I don't know, it looked gorgeous and, with the colours shells get here, not impossibly animal/ mineral. Meanwhile, he felt like a quick swim, and I took another gorgeous sunset in, quietly waiting.
After dinner, however, Chris wasn't doing great. He had a fever. It got more serious after he went to bed, and we drained the sweat off him many times that night, and fiddled with towels and sheets to make him comfortable each time around. At least, he stopped having weird, confusing, upsetting dreams, and I was over the moon with the sweating, guessing that whatever was pestering his body (a virus?) seemed to be losing the battle and leaving it. Thankfully, all in all, my love had little trouble sleeping, and I kept on reading American Gods, the most arresting book this holiday.
Labels: far and away